Works on paper generally refer to flat paper materials, including documents, manuscripts, drawings, prints, posters, and maps. Taking care when handling any collection item is one of the more effective, cost-efficient, and easily achieved preservation measures

• Handling:
• Having clean hands and a clean work area
• Keeping food and drink away
• Using pencil, not ink, to make any necessary marks or inscriptions; in addition, only make inscriptions when the paper is on a clean, hard surface, to avoid embossing the inscription into the paper, which will be visible from the other side
• Not using paper clips, other fasteners, “dog ear” folding to mark or organize leaves
• Not using rubber bands, self-adhesive tape, and/or glue on paper

• Storage:
• A cool (room temperature or below), relatively dry (about 35% relative humidity), clean, and stable environment (avoid attics, basements, and other locations with high risk of leaks and environmental extremes)
• Minimal exposure to all kinds of light; no exposure to direct or intense light
• Distance from radiators and vents
• Supportive protective enclosures (acid- and lignin-free folders, mats, and document boxes; and polyester film sleeves that are stiff enough to adequately support the paper(s) within
• Unfolded and flat or rolled storage for oversized papers
• Individual/isolated storage of acidic papers to prevent acids from migrating into the other works on paper

Photographic prints can be made by a variety of processes. This information covers photographic prints from all eras of photography and photographic negatives, but not digital image files. Taking care when handling any collection item is one of the more effective, cost-efficient, and easily achieved preservation measures.

• Handling:
• Having clean hands and wearing 100% cotton gloves; having a clean work area
• Keeping food and drink away
• Not marking photographs, even on the back side
• Not using paper clips or other fasteners to mark or organize prints
• Not using rubber bands, self-adhesive tape, and/or glue on photographic materials

• Storage: 

  Good storage is the most important preservation measure for photographic prints:

• A relatively dry (30-40% relative humidity), cool (room temperature or below), clean, and stable environment (avoid attics, basements, and other locations with high risk of leaks and environmental extremes)
• Minimal exposure to all kinds of light; no exposure to direct or intense light; use duplicate slides in light projectors
• Distance from radiators and vents
• Minimal exposure to industrial atmospheric pollutants.
• Protective enclosures within a box (Suitable protective enclosures for photographic prints are made of plastic or paper that meet certain specifications: Paper enclosures must be acid-free, lignin-free, and are available in both alkaline buffered (pH 8.5) and unbuffered (neutral, pH 7) stock. Suitable plastic enclosures are made of uncoated polyester film. Plastic enclosures must not be used for glass plate, nitrate, or acetate-based negatives.

Taking care when handling any collection item, especially functional items like books with flexing parts, is one of the more effective, cost-efficient, and easily achieved preservation measures.

• Handling:
• Having clean hands and a clean area to use the book
• Keeping food and drink away
• Removing the book from the shelf by gripping on both sides of the spine at the middle of the book (push in the neighboring book on both sides to get a good grip), instead of tugging at the top of the spine
• Not forcing a book to lie open to 180 degrees; instead, prop up the covers of an opened book to decrease the opening angle
• Not using paper clips, "dog ear" folding, or acidic inserts to bookmark pages
• Not using rubber bands, self-adhesive tape, any kind of "leather dressing," and/or glue on books

• Storage: 

  Good storage significantly prolongs the life and usability of books and includes:

• A cool (room temperature or below), relatively dry (about 35% relative humidity), clean, and stable environment (avoid attics, basements, and other locations with high risk of leaks and environmental extremes)
• Minimal exposure to all kinds of light; no exposure to direct or intense light
• Distance from radiators and vents
• Regular dusting and housekeeping
• Shelving books of similar size together, so that the face of the covers are maximally supported by the neighbors on each side
• Keeping upright shelved books straight and not leaning.

Most families have a treasured textile such as a quilt, wedding dress or tablecloth that has been handed down through the generations. Until the 20th century, textiles were made from natural sources, such as cotton or linen plants or sheep or silkworms. In the 20th century, synthetic or laboratory textiles have been developed such as rayon, nylon and acetate. Textiles (and the dyes used to color them) are very susceptible to damage from light, acids and pests.

• Handling and storage:
• Store textiles in climate-controlled spaces, not in attics or basements.
• Store or display textiles away from bright light, especially sunlight and florescent light that contains high amounts of UV radiation.
• Store textiles in acid-free boxes designed for this purpose.
• If possible, store textiles in a flat position, without folds. Gravity acts with the weight of the textile to alter the original shape and condition of the piece.
• Remove staples or pins from textiles as they may rust and stain the textile.
• If storing a garment or flat textile in a box, make certain that there are no hard creases or folds. Pad any folds or creases with acid free paper. Stuff arms of jackets and the body of jackets or bodices so the fibers are supported.
• If you must store a garment on a hanger, pad the hanger so that there is a natural shoulder shape across the top of the upper garment and if storing trousers, pad the trouser bar.
• Large, flat textiles, such as quilts or rugs, may be rolled around an acid free cardboard tube for storage. Store rolled textiles horizontally and off of the floor.
• Protect textiles from dust with unbleached muslin bags or muslin fabric dust covers or by storing in an acid-free box with a lid.

All metal except gold is susceptible to oxidation or corrosion. Prevention of corrosion or oxidation is the primary goal in caring for metal artifacts. Most corrosion is caused by moisture, although certain chemicals can also play a role. The oils and acids that occur naturally on skin can be very damaging to metal artifacts. One of the simplest ways to help preserve your artifacts is to store them in a relatively dry environment. Typically, metal artifacts should be stored in living areas, which are much dryer then sheds garages or basements. Attics are generally too hot for most artifacts.

• Handling and storage:
• Do not attempt to clean or polish metal artifacts without seeking professional advice.
• Do not handle metal artifacts with bare hands; gloves should be used.
• Generally speaking, commercially available dip-type tarnish removers should be avoided.
• The use of spray-on lacquer or similar coatings is seldom advisable.
• Although some oxidation or corrosion may be damaging to an artifact, they may also add to the value. Restoring an artifact to its original condition is not always the prudent course of action

Leather is a difficult item to preserve; care should be taken to store in medium humidity and moderate temperature. Generally speaking, storing it inside your home is suitable.

• Handling and storage:
• Avoid displaying leather items in direct sunlight or bright light. If the leather is dirty or moldy, clean it with damp cotton cloths.
• Do not use saddle soap or leather conditioners.
• If the item feels overly dry or stiff do not use petroleum products (or anything that does not list its ingredients) on your leather. Anything that is put on leather is there to stay—beware of creating problems.
• Most leather will stiffen over time; this is generally not a problem, as historic items should not be used.

Wood is a relatively stable material to preserve. Wooden artifacts can be maintained for years, provided that some basic care and attention is given to their preservation.

• Handling and storage:
• Store wooden items in your home where they are protected from extremes of temperature and humidity.
• Avoid direct sunlight or bright light, which will fade finishes.
• Avoid all temptations to over-clean or refinish wood items.
• The use of linseed oil or other oil-based products on wood items is not required or recommended. 
• If wood items are handled, a protective coating of wax may be applied. 
• When oiling firearms, take care not to get oil on the grips or stock.

Storing your medals correctly is the easiest and most effective way of preserving them.

• Handling and storage:
• Keep medals clean and dry, and away from extremes of temperature, humidity and light. Damp conditions can cause the metal of medals to corrode, and the fabric to rot. High temperatures and a very dry environment make fabric brittle and weak.
• Medals are best stored in boxes made of hoop pine plywood or acid-free cardboard. Ordinary cardboard, and other woods are acidic, and can harm metals and fabrics.
• Wrap the medal in acid-free tissue paper or well-washed fabric, preferably undyed. Soft cotton and linen fabric such as sheets, handkerchiefs or tea towels are suitable, but other fabrics such as velvet should not be used because some contain acidic dyes, which can cause the metal to corrode. Woollen felts should also be avoided, because the sulphur in the wool can cause metals to tarnish.
• Handle the medal as little as possible, as acid from your fingers can harm it. We recommend wearing soft cotton gloves when handling medals